CHOWDER-SOAKED TOAST
This delicate and brothy clam chowder soaks into the toast - an elegant and light-handed way of adding tender - rather than floury, thick and pasty - body to the soup. Removing each clam as soon as it pops open during the steaming is a small effort with enormous yield: there's not one bite of pencil-eraser toughness throughout!
Provided by Gabrielle Hamilton
Categories soups and stews, main course
Time 45m
Yield Serves 6
Number Of Ingredients 16
Steps:
- Put the olive oil in a Dutch oven, and heat on medium-high for approximately 1 minute, until the oil starts to streak. Add onion scraps and celery scraps, tarragon and littleneck clams. Stir briefly to coat with oil, and barely soften, then add the wine. Reduce the wine by half, then add 3 ounces of clam juice. Cover, and allow clams to steam open, checking often so as to remove the clams as they open, until all are open and removed. Set clams aside.
- Strain the broth through a fine-mesh sieve lined with cheesecloth, and reserve the liquid. Remove all but 6 clams from the shell. Meanwhile, in a cast-iron or heavy-bottomed sauté pan, render the slices of guanciale in the canola oil until they are browned evenly on both sides. Reserve the fat and the guanciale.
- In the Dutch oven, heat the guanciale fat, and add onion, celery, leeks, potatoes and thyme, stirring to coat. Season with salt and pepper, and cook over low heat until the vegetables have just started to soften, taking care not to brown, about 5 minutes. Cover the vegetables with remaining clam juice, and simmer until potatoes are al dente.
- Stir in the cream, and simmer until vegetables are cooked through, taking care not to boil. Add the chopped clams and the littlenecks, and season to taste with salt and ground black pepper. Remove from heat.
- Toast the bread until golden, and place each piece in a bowl. Cover the toast with pieces of guanciale, and then add a ladleful of the chowder, about 6 ounces. Garnish with the remaining littleneck clams still in the shell.
Nutrition Facts : @context http, Calories 906, UnsaturatedFat 30 grams, Carbohydrate 44 grams, Fat 66 grams, Fiber 4 grams, Protein 32 grams, SaturatedFat 32 grams, Sodium 1349 milligrams, Sugar 8 grams, TransFat 0 grams
CRAB TOAST
Like the very best crab cakes on earth, which have as little dulling, distracting or deadening filler as possible, these crab toasts take that ethos to the extreme. There is no call for bell pepper or bread crumbs or diced celery; just the best fresh, sweet, saline crab meat you can buy, gently seasoned with a little lemon juice, bound with a tiny amount of tangy crème fraîche, then piled onto a slab of good toast, still warm. The toast is made ever so luxurious with a slathering of nutty brown butter mayonnaise. These two simple components - crab and brown butter toast - act in concert, and a glass of cold rosé to wash them down makes for the most exhilarating, satisfying spring supper imaginable.
Provided by Gabrielle Hamilton
Time 30m
Yield 4 servings
Number Of Ingredients 10
Steps:
- In a small sauce pot, brown the butter over medium heat, swirling the pot, until the butter is caramel-colored and has a nutty fragrance, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a bowl, scraping up all the milk solids from the bottom and sides of the pot while the butter is still hot, and let cool to room temperature.
- Place the egg and egg yolk, 2 tablespoons lemon juice, a healthy pinch of salt and 1 tablespoon cold water in the bowl of a food processor. With the processor running, slowly drizzle in the grapeseed oil. Once all the oil has been added, the mayonnaise should be loose yet emulsified. While the processor is still running, slowly drizzle in the brown butter and any toasted milk solids. Season to taste with salt and set aside.
- For the crab salad, gently and quickly mix crab meat, olive oil, chives, crème fraîche and remaining 1 teaspoon lemon juice together in a bowl. Season to taste with salt.
- Schmear each piece of toasted bread with the brown butter mayonnaise evenly - as we like to say, "wall to wall." Divide the crab mixture among the slices, piling it evenly on top.
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